wrong $TERM, and config's term= won't work

I'm using terminator 1.0 on NixOS.

The manpage says that the default value for the environment variable TERM is xterm-256color, but when I use terminator without a configuration file, $TERM is initialized to xterm, not xterm-256color.

The manpage says that I can use term= in a profile to override the default, but it doesn't work.

I can use command=TERM=xterm-256color zsh to override in a profile, except for the default profile where that doesn't seem to work, and where custom_command works instead but then it overrides all the command= commands from all other profiles and can't itself be overridden.

WTF???